Textile Waste Management

Abstract

Globally, the textile industry is a major source of waste generation causing harmful impacts on the environment. India is a major player in the textile arena and can play a significant and exemplary role in textile waste management, textile waste reduction and promote a circular economy through a combination of actions and policy initiatives such as strengthening the textile recycling infrastructure, awareness generation for sustainable consumption, and policy interventions such as extended producer responsibility for textiles to regulate the sector.

1. Introduction

The objective of this chapter is to deliberate on possible measures that may help protect the environment from the harmful impacts of the waste generated by the textile sector in India. The chapter will explore the feasibility of institutionalization of textile recycling infrastructure and if that could better channel textile waste by using the textile waste as a resource in the production process, which in turn can help manage the current textile waste generation, reduce the burden on the raw material supply and costs associated with it and also save landfills.

The chapter will explore if increased awareness of the harmful impacts of the textile sector can promote conscious consumerism and bring about a shift towards sustainable consumption. Lastly, if the extended producer responsibility (EPR) specifically for the textile sector can help accelerate the circular economy in the textile sector.

Textiles form part of the fundamental needs of humanity viz food, shelter, and clothing. The Industrial Revolution made textiles cheaper and more affordable due to mass production at a lower cost. In the last 45 years or so, worldwide demand for textiles has seen exponential growth, a whopping 400% increase from 30 million tons in 1980 to an estimated 130 million tons by 2025 [1].

The textile sector has been drawing a lot of attention as one of the biggest environmental polluters and a major contributor to climate change. As per a 2015 report textile sector emitted 1.2 billion tons of CO2 globally [1, 2, 3].

The surge in the textile sector has caused significant environmental impacts and has turned the textile industry from a circular economy [4]—from the pre-industrial times—to a linear production line with a harmful impact on air, water, and biodiversity making it very low in sustainability rankings. In a linear economy, the products usually land up in waste once they complete the consumption cycle. The circular economy concept is based on the premise of sustainable consumption and no harm to the environment in the entire process of production and consumption [5].

It is predicted that the textile industry will consume about 26% of the world’s carbon budget, up from 2% in 2015 [5]. Nearly 1 trillion kW hours of electricity is used to produce 600 billion kg of fabric annually. Almost a quarter of chemicals produced globally, are used in the textile industry and have severe impacts on public health, animals, marine life, and the environment [5].

Textile waste has become a huge concern for India too, as India is one of the largest producers of textiles [6, 7]. A 2020 World Bank report states that India is the largest producer of waste [8] (including plastic and e-waste). While textile consumption is very high, the rate of recycling is very low just about 13% out of which only about 1% is upcycled [8].

Due to the high volume of consumption and waste generation, lack of awareness and compliance, a huge amount of textile waste enters landfills, causing harm to the environment and the climate—soil, water, and air. Textile waste is posing significant environmental challenges and therefore, serious efforts including policies such as EPR for textiles would be a timely and crucial step.

1.1 What is extended producers' responsibility

According to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) ‘Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) as an environmental policy approach in which a producer’s responsibility for a product is extended to the post-consumer stage of a product’s life cycle’ [9].

2. Methodology

Secondary data was referred for this paper which mainly included reports articles, and research papers accessible on the internet. The internet search was conducted with keywords like textile waste, environmental sustainability, circular economy, conscious consumerism, traditional handicrafts, and EPR.

3. Analysis

3.1 Textile waste

Waste generated during the production process and disposal after usage constitutes textile waste. It may be defined as pre- and post-consumer waste. Pre-consumption waste typically includes waste fibers, scraps, defective, damaged, and left-over fabric in the production process. Post-consumption waste typically includes the disposal of textiles by consumers [10]. Pre-consumer textile waste can further be classified into solid, liquid, or gas forms based on the type of waste generated during the process of production and the chemicals used [10].

Although the textile waste generated is yet to be fully captured, some estimates indicate that 3265-kilo tonnes of pre-consumer and 3944 post-consumer waste is generated annually in India, of which about 326 kilo tonnes of pre-consumer waste (1%) and about 1700 (43%) kilo tonnes of post-consumer waste finds its way in incineration or landfill [11].

India has been at the forefront in textiles with a 4000-year-old handloom history with the skills generally passed on from generation to generation [12]. Currently, India has about a 5% share of the world trade in the textile and apparel sector [12] directly employing 45 million people and indirectly about 100 million including rural artisans (a large number of whom are women) [12].

The Indian government has several schemes and grants to support the handicraft and the handloom sector and has been promoting the textile sector with various schemes and training at local levels such as skill upgradation, design and product development, use of new techniques, and eco-friendly practices (such as eco-friendly fabric dyes), concept of craft villages to promote traditional textile practices and sustainable development. To highlight and preserve the rich handicraft and handloom heritage, the Government of India declared 7 August as National Handloom Day in 2015 [13].

In addition, there are many initiatives to encourage and promote women entrepreneurs. Women Global Development Prosperity Initiative (WGPD) is an initiative launched in February 2019 with an aim to reach 50 million women in developing countries by 2025 to help women prosper in the workforce, succeed as entrepreneurs, and contribute to the economy [14]. Another example is the Women in India Social Entrepreneurship Network (WISEN) formed to create a community of women entrepreneurs who help and support each other in their entrepreneurial journey and scaling up their businesses [15].

3.2 Textile recycling infrastructure

Utilizing textile waste to make unique products has been in practice for a long time in India. Traditionally, the rich, varied, and rural-based Indian textile industry produced beautiful and exquisite products out of used clothing to maximize utility. Over generations, these practices have developed many techniques giving new life and value to the fabric by making bags, dhurries, pouches, bags, mats, dolls, puppets, quilts, comforters applique work, etc.

These crafts were rural-based and practiced by local artisans (a majority of them being women) at the local level thus giving them livelihood opportunities from the comforts of their homes [16]. The products not only bring revenue but also a sense of pride and purpose to these artisans involved in the craft.

Even if this 1% pre-consumption waste which is left out of the recycling loop and lost during various processes such as yarn production, printing, and apparel-making can have the potential to create a huge market and prevent wastage as it consists of fabric mainly from cotton, wool, polyester, and nylon and can be used to create beautiful and diverse products.

Not only it will help save the landfill but also create livelihood opportunities [17, 18]. Similarly, many useful products can made using some of the 43% post-consumer waste that goes into the landfills based on the useability of the waste.

The textile sector employs a large number of people in India, yet they often lack access and skills to operate in the wider market and despite the huge number of women involved in the handicraft sector, only 22.3 participate in the labour market (creating a gender gap of about 72%) due to a lack of formalization of the sector [19].

Women especially from rural communities can be mainstreamed and play a huge role in textile waste management initiatives by creating products from textile waste creating beautiful patterns using stitches inspired by nature, tradition, and culture. It would give a boost not only to the sector but also generate livelihood opportunities and associated social, economic, and environmental impacts such as women empowerment and better environmental impacts. “Social enterprise is a really powerful force for women’s empowerment and it’s still under-utilized,” says Mark Richardson who led research by the British Council on the role of social enterprise in supporting women’s empowerment in India [20]. Rangsutra Crafts India [21] is a well-known social enterprise that works with women artisans, training, upskilling, creating marketing linkages, and promoting sustainable fashion.

Learning from such initiatives, social enterprise models for textile recycling infrastructure could provide many alternatives. The traditional textiles with their aesthetics, blended with the modern-day needs have a very good market potential for recycled products.

For instance, by making buttons from textile waste and cloth bags can offer an alternative to plastic and help reduce the environmental impacts of plastic. Buttons are commonly made of plastic, if some of them may be replaced with fabric buttons made from various types of textiles including recycled textiles, it would decrease the demand for plastic buttons and also minimize waste. Similarly, cloth bags are reusable and eco-friendly and can help minimize the impact of plastic bags that are harmful to the environment. Initiatives such as these not only can create thriving enterprises at the local level but also contribute to environmental sustainability in a big way.

In addition, the textile recycling infrastructure would also give a boost to handmade products and promote slow fashion which could play a significant role to contribute to revive the circular economy concept that seeped in the traditional Indian handicrafts.

Handmade production or involving handwork in the textile sector would promote carefully designed and highly customized products as they are labor and time-intensive and have almost zero waste and less inventory to manage. The production technique not only minimizes wastage but also overproduction and dead stock due to slow production. The point of fault can be easily detected and rectified during the process of production thus minimizing defects. For example, it would be easy to rectify the point of fault in making a crochet or a handmade woolen sweater, blouse, bag, etc. thus, minimizing the chances that it won’t be used.

Handcrafted products rarely land in a landfill or incineration until they outlive their intended usage as they are not mass-produced and have an emotional value proposition for the user. Thus, they would match demand and supply by making only what is really needed as producing them in bulk requires more hands. In the case of bulk production, it would generate more livelihood opportunities and equitable distribution of wages. Due to lower production, they are easier to trace in the textile value chain.

Taking the lead with its 4000-year-old handloom industry India can play a leading role in promoting circular economy by reviving and promoting its rich and traditional textiles and their processing. The natural fibers and natural dyes are eco-friendly and sustainable and the waste generated during the process and post-consumption does not cause any harm to the environment. In terms of pressure on resources, concepts such as conscious consumption (refuse more than what you need), slow fashion (reuse and repair), and recycling post-consumption.

3.3 Policy initiatives

‘National Voluntary Guidelines on Social, Environmental and Economic Responsibilities of Business (NVGs)’ were introduced by the Ministry of Corporate Affairs, India in 2011 in endorsement of the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs) to encourage businesses to incorporate the guidelines in their annual reports, going beyond the regulatory business compliances [22].

Aligning with the NVGs, the Securities Exchange Board of India (a regulatory body under the Ministry of Finance, India) mandated Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) reporting the Annual Business Responsibility Reports (ABRR) for the 100 top companies listed with SEBI. Further, Sec 135 of the Company’s Act 2013 by the Ministry of Corporate Affairs mandated companies to implement Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives for the welfare of the communities [22].

The UN General Assembly adopted the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) in 2015 and called on businesses to act in accordance with UNGP principles. To align the NVGs with the SDGs, global concerns on sustainable development, and ESG, the NVGs revision was initiated in 2015 and after several revisions, the National Guidelines on Responsible Business Conduct (NGRBC) were rolled out in 2019.

In response, SEBI replaced the ABRR with The Business Responsibility and Sustainability Report (BRSR) in 2021 [23] and in July 2023, mandated ESG metrics disclosure in the BRSR starting 2023–2024 by 150 top companies and 1000 by the financial year 2026–2027.

3.4 Extended producer responsibility

EPR discussions and developments began in the early 90s for improvement in plastic waste management and to make plastic manufacturers accountable for the environmental impact of their products. A majority of countries have now implemented EPR policies and regulations in plastic waste management [24]. EPR is now being deliberated in the textile sector too. Although it is in the nascent stage with regulatory measures under discussion by the European Commission and some serious efforts to regulate textile waste management by countries like the Netherlands, Sweden, and the UK. As of now, France is the only country to have enacted a law on textile waste management [25, 26].

In India, EPR on Plastic Waste Management was introduced in 2016 under the Plastic Waste Management Rules, 2016 ‘Guidelines on Extended Producer Responsibility for Plastic Packaging’ by the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, Government of India [27]. The Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB), India has developed a centralized online portal to monitor the accountability and compliance of the EPR Obligations. There have been revisions to the rules based on inputs and engagements with stakeholders at local, regional, and national levels to bring in diverse perspectives, challenges, bottlenecks in different regions and industries, transparency, accountability, and a sense of ownership.

With the increasing traction of EPR frameworks and a higher level of consciousness in businesses and consumers on environmental sustainability, India is bound to be impacted by global policies for the textile sector considering its significant role in the global supply chain. The textile sector in India would have to integrate and align with the evolving global regulatory EPR compliances and practices to meet international standards and comprehensive and responsible waste management solutions to continue its standing and market access.

Currently, textile waste management in India is integrated and regulated under the existing waste management framework under plastic waste management, which is a good starting point for incorporating the EPR principles into the textile sector. Plastic has become integral to the textile sector as synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester, and acrylic are heavily used in the manufacturing process. Apart from fiber, accessories like buttons and packaging also heavily use plastic. Synthetic fibers do not easily biodegrade and release microplastics with harmful impacts on biodiversity when they end up in landfills.

EPR for the textile sector is proposed to expand and broaden the scope of work specific to the textile sector, textile waste management compliances, and reporting to cover the entire lifecycle and end-of-cycle management including collection and recycling infrastructure in the textile sector. The development of a timely framework would help better integration with the ESG goals and global compliances, and enhance India’s role as a responsible global player in the textile sector.

Textiles have characteristics and challenges different from plastics as the fiber composition, dyeing processes, recycling, and consumer response to fashion pose their own unique challenges. A focused approach to textile waste management would initiate discussions specifically on the issues related to the textile sector leading to the formulation of specific and well-informed policies relevant to the textile sector and corrective measures on the textile industry’s environmental impact can be addressed more systematically.

A separate EPR on the textile would allow separate resource allocation for the textile waste management sector. It would make the textile manufacturing industry more accountable and responsible for their actions and would promote tailored approaches to suit the industry's needs as well as a gradual transition towards an environment-friendly manufacturing process. As the EPR on textile waste evolves, it would also help strengthen ESG goals and CRBS compliances by SEBI.

The standalone EPR in the textile sector would also drive innovation and collaborative efforts in manufacturing and waste disposal and management involving industry players, policymakers, environmentalists, researchers, and citizens to drive more effective engagement with various actors involved in the industry.

This would encourage research and innovation to further improve the frameworks and establish the explanations for the need for such a framework. As the discussions around EPR begin, a thrust for scientific research and its integration into social development projects should be given to generate robust and nature-based solutions.

Encouraging more research in the textile sector would promote working with scientists and involving stakeholders from the industry, educational institutes, and even citizens. Citizens can play a big role in helping the scientists by supporting data collection, monitoring, and providing inputs from a diverse perspective. This would not only strengthen scientific thinking and approaches but also generate awareness on the harmful impacts of textile waste on the environment but also prompt corrective measures and actions by citizens making them more conscious of their actions and their impact on the environment.

Scientists are increasingly recognizing the role of citizens in research and development plans and working with citizens for the generation of evidence-based research initiatives [28]. There is a huge scope of scientific research on textile waste management. Science-based targets could provide pathways for alignment of resource utilization by designing high-value and impact targets through research, innovation, and technology to redesign manufacturing aligned with the environmental sustainability goals. Research and innovation funding can enhance resource efficiency, eco-friendly materials, and production techniques.

For effective and efficient measures of textile waste management and reduction, it is essential to work on top-down and bottom-up approaches to complement efforts. The top-down approach can be promoted through a standardized framework such as the EPR framework in the textile sector aligned with national priorities and global guidelines such as the ESGs. The framework should provide clear procedures, guidelines, and compliances for sustainable production and consumption by textile manufacturing companies setting standards and reporting for waste disposal pre and post-consumption, and information sharing on the product labels to inform the consumers about the product's environmental impact, setting limits of waste generation, collection, and recycling targets to minimize wastage, minimizing plastic usage in production and plastic packaging, use of hazardous chemicals, water consumption in production.

4. Conclusion

A comprehensive approach is required for textile waste management, textile waste reduction, and circular economy by promoting resource conservation methods, waste reduction techniques, and environment-friendly practices in the textile sector. This would require collective actions involving multiple stakeholders.

The untapped informal textile sector can play an important role by creating the textile waste value chain, establishing markets for textile waste products, and reducing pressure on landfills. The textile waste data is yet to be fully captured as it is a vast sector with numerous players at all levels. The traditional tailoring units, boutiques, individuals owning individual tailoring setups, and customizing various products across cities and rural areas are yet to be accounted for in the textile value chain. The waste generated through these units often gets mixed up with household waste. A collection center for textile waste around such setups would help minimize the mixing up of the textile waste and help recycle it.

Manufacturing companies could support the formalization of textile waste collection centers and production hubs for manufacturing. Incentives and subsidies can be given for the regulated supply of textile waste and products made from this waste. Local artisans and community members, especially women can be involved in the production to create products using traditional handicraft techniques to bring in unique product value. This would not only close that gap in the labor market on women's participation but also help remove barriers, empower women [29] to promote entrepreneurship, generate business at the local level, and promote sustainability.

Promotion of the handicrafts sector and advocating eco-friendly practices such as the use of natural fibers would promote environment-friendly production as Indian handicrafts align well with nature conservation principles.

Indian handicrafts have traditionally used natural fibers like cotton, jute, silk, wool, etc. which are biodegradable. For color and print plant-based natural dyes were used that do not contaminate water, or soil and also do not pose any health hazards. The handicrafts were often hand-produced with high quality with the idea to make them long-lasting and to be reused. This is in contradiction to the fast fashion approach today with a focus on ever-evolving new fashion trends and customer preferences putting pressure on the sector with very tight timelines for the production cycle and encouraging irresponsible practices for the workforce as well as the environment.

Shifting consumer behaviour towards sustainable fashion would go to great lengths to encourage a higher push for environment-friendly and zero-waste manufacturing. Consumers have now started paying more attention to sustainable clothing with more research and information available to the consumers on the type of chemicals used in clothing and their harmful impacts on health. For example, a study was conducted by Greenpeace International using April 2012 purchase data on 20 global brands to understand the use of chemicals in textile manufacturing and their impact on water. The study found high levels of potentially hazardous chemicals were found, that not only contaminate water during the manufacturing process, but their traces continue during garment use and disposal [30]. The promotion of Indian handicraft practices could play a significant role in encouraging conscious fashion choices globally.

Similarly, promoting the use of natural fibers would bring down synthetic fiber usage which is not environment friendly. Sustainable use of water, energy, and raw materials would ensure resource conservation in the manufacturing process. The use of eco-friendly chemicals and fibers would ensure safe working conditions and minimum harm to human health, water, soil, and the air ultimately contributing to positive environmental impacts. Sustainable consumption would lead to need-based production. Research in the handicraft sector could help substantiate the value created by the sector for positive impacts on local biodiversity.

Similarly, a well-thought-out policy specifically for the textile sector such as the EPR would immensely contribute to the ESG goals, and CRBS compliances, as well as the global comparability as India is emerging as a strong market fueled by the local-level social enterprises can help accelerate the circular economy in the textile sector. The policy would also give a boost to the textile sector with innovative technologies in the production and supply chain with the potential for cost savings, process efficiencies, and a more sustainable future for future generations.