Classification natural fibre.
Abstract
Natural fiber has a more long history and these are very important in a wide range of applications in the textile sector. Basically, natural fibers have biopolymers and natural fibers are basically made from either plant or animal-sourced. The plant-based natural fibers are major constituent of cellulose content and animal-based natural fibers are comprised of proteins. Nowadays, more used around the world for the plant-based natural fibers to bioplastics, biocomposites materials in automotive industries. These make product are low cost, low density, low manufacturing energy consumption, and more biodegradable. The ever-growing environmental, ecological, and economical concerns lead to increased acceptance of natural fibers in every area of conventional synthetic material application. This is due to biodegradability, nontoxicity, combustibility, easy availability, nonabrasiveness, and good specific strength. The present study focuses on the functional application aspect of natural fibers, basically an identification of fiber, classification and application of fibers process parameters.
Keywords
- natural fibers
- classification and application of fibers process parameters
1. Introduction
Basically fiber is defined as a unit of substance characterized by flexibility, fineness, length, and thickness. In the order of textile, the fiber basically used have should be sufficiently high-temperature stability, strength, elasticity, and moisture performance. Generally, textile fibers are basically of two categories: natural sources and man-made fibers. They are fibers from natural sources like plants and animals etc. and do not require fiber formation, are categorized as natural fibers. The natural fibers are basically of two categories like cellulose fiber such as flex, hemp, cotton, mineral fiber, and another classes protein fibers are such as silk and wool [1, 2].
Man-made filaments are filaments in which either the introductory chemical units have been formed by chemical conflation followed by fiber conformation or the polymers from natural sources have been dissolved and regenerated after passage through a spinneret to form filaments. Those filaments made by chemical conflation are frequently called synthetic filaments, while filaments regenerated from natural polymer sources are called regenerated filaments or natural polymer filaments [3]. In other words, all synthetic filaments and regenerated filaments are man-made filaments, since man is involved in the factual fiber conformation process [4, 5]. In discrepancy, filaments from natural sources are handed by nature in ready-made form. Basically, man-made fibers contain polyesters, acrylics, polyamides (nylon), vinyls, elastomeric fibers, polyolefins, while the regenerated fibers include rayon, cellulose acetates, the regenerated proteins, glass, and rubber fibers. Basically, this article has the main purpose of all types of textile fibers, gives brief knowledge with specification facts.
2. Basic properties of a textile fiber
In this session, we have described the properties of all kind of fibers, which are commonly viewed as important aspects.
2.1 Fineness
The fineness is very important part of each fiber. The thickness of fiber can be known from its width, diameter, and sectional area. But there are very few fibers that have a completely round sectional area. So it is difficult to get the perfect answer. Therefore, there is a number that shows the ratio of weight against a fixed length or vice versa, the ratio of length against a fixed weight. For example, fineness is indicated by Denier, Tex, or yarn count. The excellence of fiber quality is evaluated from its fineness.
2.2 Length/diameter
Length is an important characteristic that defines the usefulness of a textile fiber. The length should also be many times its diameter. In general, this would mean that when one talks of fiber length in terms of a few centimeters it has to be a few microns of fiber diameter. The staple length of spinnable fibers is generally not less than 18 mm. Fibers below 5 mm are just not integrated into the yarn. In the case of filament fiber this ratio would be very large and perhaps irrelevant. The cut staple length depends on the spinning system to be used and the fiber it is blended with in case of blends [6].
2.3 Strength
It is essential that the fabric should be durable enough. For durability, the fabric must be strong enough. The strength of the fabric is more influenced by the strength of the fiber present in the cloth. Basically it indicated strength to resistance constant by fibers, yarns form, and cloths to breakdown when energy is applied to them. The basically is strength parameters like bending, tensile and bursting, etc. according to the direction and application power.
2.4 Elasticity
Basically, elasticity performance depends on capability of the garments to the material to area imaginative nature after being deformed by the use of strength. Elasticity or elastic recovery is generally influenced by the extent of stretch, during time which material is kept in its stretched condition, and the time to recover.
2.5 Uniformity
It is essential that there should be limited variations in length and diameter between the fibers to fiber. In other words the fiber should be more uniform which will ensure uniformity in the yarn as well as in the fabric.
2.6 Spinnability
It indicated that the individual fibers must be capable of being spun into a yarn and then fabric with sufficient strength. For better spinnability the fiber must have better cohesiveness i.e., they must hold together to prevent slippage. The spinnability is normally used for the man-made fiber-developed procedure.
2.7 Hygroscopic property
If a fiber is left in the atmosphere, it has the properties of absorbing moisture automatically. The limit of this absorption differs according to the kind of fiber. It differs even in the same fibers according to temperature and relative humidity. Generally, the volume of moisture absorption increases along with the increase of humidity. However, the increment ratio is not always in direct proportion with the increase in humidity.
2.8 Thermal conductivity
Fibers are mostly used in raw material for clothing and the purpose of clothing is to decorate. However, the main purpose is to prevent from cold or heat (specially to prevent from clod). The amount of thermal conductivity of fibers is one of the important properties.
2.9 Resistance to chemical agents
The reaction of fibers to chemicals varies a lot according to their types. But generally, nature fibers of vegetable origin are weak in acids and strong in alkalis. Other natural fibers of animal origin are strong in acids and weak in alkalis. The man-made fiber, fibers of the cellulose series are weak in both acid and alkali, whereas synthetic fiber is stable to a certain extent in acid also and alkali also.
3. Classification of textile fibers
All the textile fiber classification is mention in below Table 1.
3.1 Natural fiber
Natural fibers are those, which are obtained from plants, animals, or minerals.
3.1.1 Vegetable fiber
Among vegetable fibers, the kind of fiber differs according to the part of the tree/shrub, from which it is taken.
For example, collections of fiber growing on the seeds like raw cotton, Kapok, etc. collection of grown as the skin of the plant stem (bast) like flax, ramie, hemp, jute, etc. the collection of fiber from fruit shells like coir fiber (coconut fiber). The out of this most important one is raw cotton and next to it are flax, jute, Manila hemp, and ramie [7, 8].
3.1.2 Cotton fiber
Raw cotton is being used as a material for clothing for a long and its origin can be traced to 2200 BC. The cotton hair during its growth is almost cylindrical and contains a central canal called is the lumen. When remove from the seed, however the cell collapse into a flat ribbon which forms an irregular spiral band under the influence of light and air.
The cotton fibers are having different lengths. These depend upon the types of soil, weather condition, duration of harvesting the crops, etc. the length of cotton fibers are expressed in the terms of staple length. Very good fibers measure a length of 2 inches. The length of fiber also depends on the fineness of the fibers, longer the fiber finer will be the diameter. The length of cotton fiber varies from 1200 to 1300 times its width.
3.1.3 Kapok fiber
Kapok is a silky fiber obtained from the pod of kapok tree. The botanical name is Ceiba pentranda of the family Boombacaceae. This tree is grown principally in Java, Africa, Netherlands, and South East Asia, where the soil and hot climate conditions are especially suited for its growth. The fibers are contained in the outer shell, loosely surrounding the seeds and entirely free from the cell. The Kapok fiber has a hollow structure with an external radius of around 8.25 (±4) mm, internal diameter around 7.25 (±4) mm, and length around 25 (±5) mm. Combined with the specific material density of 1.3 g/cm3.
3.2 Bast fiber
Basically are the bast fiber category in Jute, Flex, Hemp, Ramie, etc. [9].
3.2.1 Jute fiber
Jute fiber is moderately strong, lustrous & yellowish-brown in color. It tends to disintegrate in water and has poor elasticity. However, this rigidity becomes virtuous. It is our best bagging material. Jute is difficult to bleach and it cannot be made pure white. It is the most important among all bast fibers. It is 2rd only to cotton in terms of crop polymer. It is easy to be spun but deteriorates when exposed to moisture. It can be converted wool-like fiber by treatment with strong caustic soda. It is highly hygroscopic with moisture regain of 13.75% and moisture content of 12% and the staple length of the fiber varies between 60 and 120 inches. Its color varies from yellow to brown. Generally, fiber is coarser and it is harsh. It is attacked by bacteria when damp. Jute is mixed with wool. Jute cloth is used for covering the cattle during winter because of its thermal insulation properties. It can be used for backing cloth for carpets and in the making of gunny bags, ropes, etc. it can be substituted for plywood also [10, 11].
3.2.2 Flex fiber
Flax is also called as linen and many times it is called as linen, when it is turned into yarn or fabric. This is known very well around the world as the oldest of all the cultivated fiber raw materials. Flax is the bast fiber found in the stem of the plant “Linium usitatissium”. The plant is cultivated in cold and humid conditions. So, the plantation is centered in cold countries. The major source of supply of flax is from the old U.S.S.R. the other countries which have flax growing areas are North Ireland, Egypt, Japan, Brazil, France, U.S.A., Australia, Canada, etc. Like jute, flax is an annual plant. The plant from which the fiber extracts grows in moist and cold conditions. The plant grows up to 160 to 170 cm in height and 1.5 cm in diameter. The tree is matured by changing its color from green to yellow. The flax fiber color is yellowish to gray, length 18 to 30 inches, elongation at a break of 2.7 to 3.5%, and moisture regain 10 to 12% [12].
3.2.3 Hemp fiber
Basically hemp fiber is bast fiber category and similar harvesting process like for the flex fiber. These fibers are thick as compared to flax and darker color, tough to bleach process. This fiber is strong and more durable. The strands of the hemp fiber, approximate length of 6 to 8 feet and fiber length of 1.2 to 2.5 cm. The hemp fiber cross-section is polygonal shape and fiber is very stiff and surrounds considerable lignin. They are hemp fiber to produce for the coarse count cloths like sack material, rope, canvas, etc. Generally, hemp fiber is color yellowish to deep brown and moisture regains 12%. The hemp fiber is very poor elasticity recovery performance [13].
3.2.4 Ramie fiber
The ramie fiber is also bast fiber categories and generally to known this fiber as a china grass. All produced fiber processes are similar to hemp fiber. The ramie fiber is a white color with more luster and good strength. This fiber is basically used for industrial application and furnishing where rough, irregular clothes are desired. The plant grows to a height of 1 to 3 meters with a diameter of approximately 8 to 20 mm thick. The plant requires a tropical climate, where the winter temperature should be above freezing. This plant is also grown in India Australia, America, Japan, Brazil, etc. Ramie is a perennial fiber, with a yield from two to five crops of fiber per year, which depends upon the soil and climate. Ramie is ready for harvesting when the lower part of the stalk turns light yellowish-brown and the lower leaves matured by turning yellow and detachable. Harvesting is done by cutting the stalks. The physical properties of Ramie fiber exhibited high tenacity, high luster, and brightness. It has resistance to heat, light, acid, and alkali, etc. The ramie fiber is moisture regain used 12% [14, 15].
3.3 Animals fibers
They basically are used for animal fiber like wool and silk.
3.3.1 Wool fiber
Animal hairs are obviously natural clothing material; they protect the body from wind and rain and also soften the extremes of temperature in various climates. A typical hair contains three parts the cuticular layers or epidermis, the fiber layer or cortex, and the pith or medulla. The wool is the haircut and collected from the sheep. Therefore before elaborating about the sheep wool, it is necessary to elaborate a little about the sheep. In the wool market, they are broadly classified into merino variety and crossbred variety. Sometimes only are used for comeback variety [16].
3.3.1.1 Specifications for wool fiber
3.3.2 Silk fiber
Silk originated from the silkworm which is cultivated in a warm shiny climate and usually employs cheap labor. The silk fabrics comprise the fabrics woven with raw silk and degummed after weaving and the fabrics woven by using the degummed silk yarn. They generally are used raw silk material to make woven cloth in white color. They are dyed on fabric surface plain color or according to consumer demand printed used. There is also a method of degumming and dyeing in which the dye is put into the degumming tank and dyeing is carried out instantaneously with scouring [17, 18].
Tenacity dry 2.8 to 5.2 gpd, tenacity wet 75 to 95% of dry.
S. No. | Type of fiber | Fiber moisture regain (%) | Fiber density (g/cm3) |
---|---|---|---|
1. | Cotton | 7.5 to 8 | 1.52 |
2. | Kapok | Above 7 | 1.30 |
3. | Jute | 12 to 13.5 | 1.52 |
4. | Flax | 10 to 12 | 1.52 |
5. | Hemp | 12 | 0.83 |
6. | Ramie | 10 to 12 | 1.50 to 1.55 |
7. | Sisal | 11 | 1.46 |
8. | Coconut | 8 to 12 | 1.18 |
9. | Banana | 13 | 1.19 |
10. | Bamboo | 12.7 | 1.1 |
11. | Wool | 12 to 14 | 1.31 |
12. | Silk | 11 | 1.34 |
S. No. | Type of fiber | Fiber moisture regain (%) | Fiber density (g/cm3) |
---|---|---|---|
1. | Nylon | 4 | 1.14 |
2. | Polyester | 0.4 | 1.38 |
3. | Polypropylene | 0.01 | 0.769 |
4. | Polyurethane | 1.3 | 1.0 |
5. | Acetate | 6 | 1.32 |
6. | Viscose | 11 to 13 | 1.46 to 1.54 |
7. | Acrylic | 1.5 to 2 | 1.17 |
3.4 The basic identification of fiber
Generally, fiber identification is of three types microscopy view, burning test, and solubility test [19, 20, 21].
3.4.1 Microscopy view
The textile fibers, particularly the natural ones, have typical longitudinal and cross-sectional shapes and therefore can be identified by viewing them under the optical microscope. This technique cannot be used very successfully in the case of man-made fibers, except for a few because their cross-sections can be modified during production. Typical cross-sectional and longitudinal shapes of some of the fibers are given in the following Tables 4 and 5.
S. No. | Fiber | Longitudinal appearance | Cross-sectional shape |
---|---|---|---|
1. | Cotton | Ribbon like Convolutions (twist) that often change direction | Collapsed, bean-shaped, Irregular size, lumen visible |
2. | Flex | Presence of cross marking and nodes. Pointed tips and smooth outline is present | Fiber bundle, fiber exhibit polygonal structure with sharp angles and small central lumen. |
3. | Jute | Poorly defined nodes fiber present in bundles observation spiral elements with cross markings. | Fiber bundles with irregular outline. Fiber exhibit polygonal structure with sharp angles, outline regular in shape with thick circular. |
4. | Hemp | Fiber bundle, cross markings, and nodes present. Smooth and pointed tips | Polygonal with sharply defined angles with small central lumen. |
5. | Ramie | Broad ribbon like fibers and longitudinal striations, rounded tips. | Flattened structure, radical fissures, elongated lumen, and thick walls. |
6. | Gummed Silk | Irregular elliptical Ribbons | Triangular with rounded corners in pairs. |
7. | Degummed silk | Single, smooth, nearly structure less | Triangular cross-section with rounded corners. |
8. | Tussar Silk | Flat irregular ribbons | Very elongated triangles normally separate, with rounded corners. |
9. | Wool | Rough surface scales, medulla or central fiber or core | Round or nearly round, medulla may appear shaped |
S. No. | Fiber | Longitudinal appearance | Cross-sectional shape |
---|---|---|---|
1. | Polyester, Nylon and Polypropylene | Rod like smooth profile | Regular, circular |
2. | Acetate, Triacetate | Distinct lengthwise striations | Irregular, serrated |
3. | Acrylic | Broad, indistinct lengthwise striations | Irregular, dog bone shape |
4. | Viscose | Distinct lengthwise striations | Irregular, serrated |
3.4.2 Burning test
This test is basically identification for fiber smell, bead, and burning behavior performance (Table 6).
S.No. | Fiber | Inflame | Behavior outside the flame | Smell | Residue |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1. | Cotton, Jute, Flex and Viscose | Burns quickly | Continues to burn | Burning like paper | Light gray ash |
2. | Wool | Burn slowly | Self-extinguishing | Burning like hair | Crushable black bead |
3. | Silk | Burn slowly | Self-extinguishing | Burning like hair | Crushable black bead |
4. | Polyester | Melts. Burns slowly | Burns, drips may extinguish because of dripping | Chemical smell. Slightly sweet, chemical odor. | Hard tough light colored bead |
5. | Nylon | Melts. Burns slowly | Burns, drips may extinguish because of dripping | Burning beans like | Hard tough light colored bead |
6. | Acetate | Burn quickly | Continue to burn noncrushable | Acid (hot vinegar) | Hard black bead |
7. | Acrylic | Burn rapidly | Continue to burn | Acid like | Irregular, hard black bead |
8. | Polypropylene | Burn rapidly | Burns continuously | Burning like plastic | Hard tough tan bead |
3.4.3 Solubility test
The solubility of a fiber in the specific chemical component is frequently means of fiber identification (Table 7).
S. No. | Fiber | Solubility |
---|---|---|
1. | Cotton | 75% H2So4 at room temperature |
2. | Wool | Soluble in 5% NaoH at room temperature, soluble in 0.25% sodium hypochlorite solution |
3. | Silk | Soluble in 5% NaoH (Hot) |
4. | Nylon | Soluble in formic acid 85% and M-Cresol |
5. | Polyester | Dissolves in ortho chlorophenol at room temperature, 95°C meta cresol soluble. Concentration 75% H2So4 at room temperature soluble polyester, |
6. | Viscose | Dissolves in sodium zincate solution, 59% Sulfuric acid dissolves |
7. | Acrylic | Dissolves in DMF, DMSO, Ammonium thiocyanate (70% solution at boil) |
8. | Polypropylene | Dissolves in boiling Xylol, floats on water, Meta Xylene (at Boil) |
9. | Acetate | Cold acetone, glacial acetic acid at 25 °C |
10. | Triacetate | Solution in chloroform and methylene dichloride |
4. Conclusion
In present study has given an overview concept of basically different types of textile fibers, classification fiber, and fiber identification performance knowledge. According to all textile fibers important characteristics view in the following conclusion are drawn:
The overall appearance and luster of a textile can be related to the shape and light-absorbing and scattering characteristics of the individual fiber within the structure.
They are generally man-made and natural source, both fibers are important aspects got in comfort properties like fiber fineness, strength, length, and moisture regain, etc.
A number of fiber end-use properties in textile constructions relate to the esthetic, tactile, and comfort characteristics of the fiber.
Textile fibers is a vast and challenging field in which required functionality can be designed by a suitable choice of raw material, fabric structure, cloths design, and finishes.
Due to the suitable properties of fibers such as cotton, hemp, polyester, elastane, and blends of fibers and filaments, their use in comfort clothing is of paramount importance.
Protection and safety are the important design aspects of garments a fabric, which provides comfort to the wearer by protecting it from adverse weather conditions and also enhances the performance of the selection of fiber.
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